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Warp9 Motor Arrived today!

Oct. 19, 2007
The WarP9 motor that i ordered from Ryan at EV Source.com arrived today, My buddy, Jerry, hauled it home and help me unload it. It's like an expensive Christmas present!

I unpacked the motor looks perfect, only there is NOT any paperwork of information with the motor.

I went to go-ev.com site and downloaded, printed and put the infomation in a binder for future reference.

Warp9 Motor Installation!

Oct. 20, 2007

Time to get more done..
Warp9 motor from EV Source.com is ready to get motor-to-transmission adapter bolted on. The Adaptor assm. came from Canadian Electric Vehicles Ltd.



I used a little Locktite as some insurance that nothing comes loose.

Then tighten all 4 bolts evenly, make sure the adapter is against the motor end bell all around it.
I slide the coupler spacer on next.

I removed the allen set screw from the taper lock hub and put a little Locktite on it.

I slide the 1/4" key into the keyway and slide the taper lock hub on the drive shaft up against the spacer.

I slid the adapter bushing on the Taper-lock hub and lined up the holes for the socket head capscrews. I put a little Locktite on these too. Tighten these evenly, going around the hub, they will get a little tighter each time you go around the hub tightening them. These hubs are very strong and tighten up really tight on the shaft for a permanent connection.
I found the torque values for the 1/4" socket head cap screws that connect the Taper-lock bushing to be 5 ft-lbs or 55 in-lbs.
Note: Just be sure that you tighten the cap screws evenly and go around several times tightening them (to the correct torque), you will notice that they get just a little tighter each time.
It is normal to have a small gap even after the bolts are completely tightened (to the correct torque) between the Taper-lock bushing and the Taper-lock hub.
Don't over tighten!

I attached my clutchless flywheel coupling to the adapter and put a little lock-tight on these bolts. This is a good time to put a small amount of grease in the pilot bushing and on the splines where the transmission shaft slides through the clutchless adapter.

I tightened these evenly, holding the coupling from turning with oil filter pliers and then torqued these 3/8" bolts to 35 Ft/Lbs.

Next I installed the clutchless splined adapter that mates to the transmission. These are grade 8 cap screws and i torqued them to 35 ft/lbs. The nuts on the back side are nylon lock nuts.

Motor Coupler complete!


Upon close examination of the cooling fins inside the motor end bell I saw that the bell housing adapter bolts had pushed 4 cooling fins loose, and they were ready to breakoff and drop into the motor. If I had not seen these loose fins the results would have been a ruined armature and windings! I would have thought that the designer would have taken into account that the bolts may be long enought to do this and that they would have designed the cooling fins to be on each side of the bolts, NOT directly under all of them!
NOTE: Nov. 2008, go-ev.com Has realized that this could present a problem and has changed their tooling such that if too long of bolts are used the bolts will come out of the motor end base between the cooling fins.

The lifting eye was not on the top of the motor so I rigged up this with bailer twine to get the motor balanced.

There was motor(?) or transmission(?) oil slung all over inside of the transmission input housing, I replaced the transmission input shaft seal, but I want to make sure that if the transmission does leak that I will know it before the oil could fill the bellhousing cavity, so I drilled a 1/2" hole in the bottom of the transmission housing.

I used a engine hoist to set the motor assembly in place. To my amazment the motor and transmission went right together when I turned the motor shaft slowly after getting them lined up. COOL! (I had preassembled the clutchless coupling on the transmission input shaft pior to bolting it on the motor. I sure didn't want to fight trying to get the motor and transmission together only to find out I should have prefit tested the coupling. Been there dun that!)

Installed the adapter bolts and tightened them. I installed the bottom half of the motor mount into the S10 motor mount holes.

The top half of the motor mount from Canadian Electric Vehicles Ltd. does not fit the Warp9 motor, the mount is built to fit a 9" Advanced Dc motor. I knew this when I ordered the mount but modifications are easier to make if i had a mount to work with when making it fit my motor. I marked where I needed to cut off and move the bracket for the torque bolt. Then welded it back on and used a short threaded stud and nut with lock tight.

I bolted the two motor mount pieces together with 1/2" X 1 1/2" bolts and locked them with double nuts to lock the bolts from coming loose.

The ears of the top motor mount are bending down, so, I will fabricate a couple of lightweight blocks to bolt between the 2 halfs of the mount ears. Thank you, Randy@canev.com.

Oct. 24, 2007

I drilled 5/8" holes through the mounting halves where the motor pole bolt heads would go into the holes making a secure clamp around the motor.

I used a couple of 1/2" blocks of wood from the motor shipping pallet to fabricate the spacer blocks with a 9/16" hole drilled in the center for the mounting bolts. I put a sample block on top of the motor to see what it looks like.

This is much better!

Nov. 8, 2007

I made an adaptor to go from the 3" X 3" motor cooling fan to 3" round hose and an 3" hose adaptor to mount on the motor to blow air from the cooling fan into the cooling port of the Warp motor.

Dec. 17,2007

I (RE)made the air cooling collar for the motor, I used a piece of gasket material between the metal band of the cover and the motor to have some extra insulation protection for the brush leads in case they raise up enough to touch the uninsulated metal band. I also made sure the steering linkage cleared the air tube.

Jan. 3, 2008

I made a bracket for the cooling fan to bolt to the motor mount and installed a 3" plastic turbo intake 90 elbow on the cooling shroud.

Jan. 5, 2008

I salvaged the front screen from the 120 volt ceramic heater and made a protective inlet screen to cover the cooling motor intake.

May 10, 2008

I bought a 9" Frisbee at my local Deseret Industries Thrift Store.
Made a raised cap over the cooling motor intake screen, this is to give some protection to the main motor in case water somehow runs into the cooling fan.
I made a mounting spacer from a couple of vacuum hoses that fit one inside the other, and attached the cover with a sheet metal screw.
I coated the screw threads with RTV sealant as a precaution to keep the screw from loosening.
I secured the back of the cap with a plastic wire tie to a metal tab on the fan housing.

May 31, 2008

The M FAN 10A (Motor cooling fan 10 Amp) fuses the power going down to the motor cooling fan.
When the ignition is "ON", this EV fuse block is powered with a 30 amp relay on the firewall.

Jun. 6, 2008

While I had the motor cooling fan removed to attach the 2/0 welding cable to the motor terminals,
I snapped a picture of the completed cooling fan with the frisbee cover.

Jun. 12, 2008

I tested the motor cooling system and heard the cooling motor making a loud squeeling sound.
I removed the fan, disassenbled the motor and found that sometime (likely during shipping) the motor had been damaged and had a broken magnet that was rubbing against the armature.
I super glued it back into place and lubed the motor bushings, reassembled the cooling fan and tested it. Sounds good!

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