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Sept. 23, 2007

The Digital gauges require a isolated DC power supply.
I am going to have to give some thought as how to mount the Isolated Power Supply chips in an enclosure.

Jan. 6, 2008

I bought the following items from eBay for this project:
3 each, 3AG Panel Mount Fuse Holders
3 insulated, power supply chips, 10 volt DC to 16 volt DC in & 12 volt DC out at 1 Watt.

I bought the following items at Radio Shack:
2 ea. 3x2x1 Project Enclosure, #270-1801
1 pkg. IC PC Board, #276-159
1 pkg. PC Board Terminals, #276-1388
1 pkg. 14 pin, IC 14 Socket #276-1999
I salvaged the red and black wires needed for these insulated DC power supply enclosures from an old computer power supply.


I labeled the terminals and the box to help keep from getting confused as to what wires went where. I put a small piece of foam between the PC Board and the PC board solid.

Jan. 7, 2008

I installed 0.1 amp fuses in the 3AG fuse holders.

Jan. 12, 2008

I built a mount for the motor tach sensor.

Feb. 2, 2008

I bought the following items at Radio Shack:
1 ea. 3x2x1 Project Enclosure, #270-1801
1 ea. D-Sub Connector, 15 position, male, #276-1501
1 ea. D-Sub Connector, 15 position, female, #276-1502
1 ea. D-Sub Hood, shielded-metal, 15 position, #276-1508
1 ea. Microphone Connector, 4 pin, male, panel mount, #274-002
1 ea. Microphone Connector, 4 pin, female, #274-001A

I salvaged a few feet of Beldon computer cable, with 3 pairs of 24 Gauge stranded wire.
I labeled the gauge wires in the group to each gauge. I also kept the wiring consistent colors, Red and Black to power each gauge, White and Green wires are for measured voltage or current.
I retained the digital gauges with a single #4 round head screw at the bottom, center, of each gauge. Before going on to installing the gauge assembly, I did some testing, with a 9 volt battery, to make sure the gauges would operate.


Feb. 3, 2008

I drew a simple diagram to help me with future wiring and troubleshooting.

I connected the wires that will go to the 170 volt DC into the microphone connectors, I am not sure the internal terminals are insulated with a material that will handle 200 volts DC. The gauge power supplies are fused with a 0.1 AMP fuse to protect the wiring and gauges.
I used the D-Sub connectors to handle the 12 volt gauge power connections. I used 2 different connectors to help to prevent the main battery 170 volts and the 12 volt systems from an accidental shorting together within a single connector.

I cut the right side rear corner out of the plastic gauge holder to run the gauge connectors out to the connector junction box, which I am going to install in the glove box. The notch is for the wires to enter the glove box through the access cover at the back of the glove box.

Feb. 5, 2008

Made a junction box for the gauge connectors, need to label all of the wires. The Hv Dc wires are separate from the 12 volt wires and will be wrapped with bright orange electrical tape.

Feb. 2, 2008

Installed the junction box for the gauge connectors in the glovebox. The Bright Orange tape is on the Hv Dc wires.

Installed an A pillar gauge pod for the digital tach. and ran the wires down to the S10 fuse box.

Mar. 23, 2008

I used small plastic wire nuts to attach the tach. wiring. The tach. is a snug fit in the "A" Pillar gauge pod.

May 8, 2008

I decided on a mounting location on the fire wall, between the power brake booster and the left hood hinge, to mount the gauge's isolated power supplies .
Rerouted the isolated power supply wires out of the bottom of the project boxes, to make it easier to mount them next to each other with out pinching the wiring between the boxes.

May 9, 2008

Used a light gauge piece of aluminum for a strap to hold the isolated power supplies.
Put a small amount of silicone sealant where the wires exit the project boxes.
Made sure the power supply fuses were not too high on the firewall so as they would not contact the underside of the hood.
Secured the power supplies with flat head sheet metal screws.

May 16 & 17, 2008

I bought a terminal strip and small plastic project boxes at Idaho Inst.
I decided on the firewall location for the gauge connection junction boxes and attached them.
I kept the HV battery measured wires in the box with the Orange cover and all of the gauge power (12 volt) and the 12 volt measured wires in the other box.
I bought a lable maker at Costco and labled each group of wires as to their purpose.
I refered to my wiring lables and wired them in. I drilled holes in the end plates and cut them to accept the wire through the slots.
I used shielded cable and attached them to the S10 body (grounded) at both endes.
Connected the wires to the power supply boxes and labled the boxes.
Connected the acc. fuse block to the gauge power leads and also the 12 volt measured voltage (12v msrd.) is connected with a fuse in the fuse block.
Labled the cover of the fuse block, just in case my memory fades.
The power for the acc. fuse block will come from a 30 amp relay mounted next to the 30 amp breaker.
I will wire the relay to the S10 ignition switch.
With the ignition switch in the "ON" position, power will energize the relay and send power from the S10 12 volt connector on the firewall, to the acc. fuse block through the contacts in the relay.
This will be good cause it give me a very short connection to all of these components and the whole acc. fuse block will be deenergized when the ingition is "OFF".

I also shortened the stock S10 wiring so that the fuseable links (from the stock GM S10 Delco alternator output connection), are now at the connection on the firewall.
I will tuck all of this wiring, with exception of the fusable links, into the stock S10 plastic wiring cover.

Jun 12, 2008

I tested the gauges and found that the 200 volt gauge did not power up.
I open the isolated power supply box for that gauge and tested the isolated power supply... NO OUTPUT!
I tested the isolated power IC., it Works good!
I installed a spare board and and used the IC. Power supply chip in the new board. It WORKS!
I took a good look at the old board that I removed and saw that I had not soldered the wires that go to the screw connectors!! OPPS!! At least I found my mistake.

Jun 24, 2008

I am trying to find away to mount the motor tach sensor.
I bought 4 ea. 3"X3/4" corner angles to use for mounting the tach. sensor.
I am going to come off of the electromagnetic clutch mounting bolts with the angle irons, I hope with out having to anything more than just enlarge the holes in the angle brackets to 5/16".

Jun 25, 2008

I build the first angle to mount on the ac clutch bolts. I brazed 1/4" washers to make a round surface for mounting the 2 brackets on the ac clutch bracket.

The electro clutch coil must be centered around the motor shaft, so, I built this little tool from a light fixture holder to bolt onto the end of the motor.

I adjusted the coil on the mounting bolts until, I could turn the motor shaft and the tip of the tool was 1/16" away from the coil housing all of the way around.

I used the angles brackets to make a frame to support the sensor.
I counter sunk the heads of the bolts in the brackets and welded the heads in place.

This is the coupling that goes over the end of the Aux. motor shaft to get it to extend into the tach. pickup.



I modified the mount that I had made in Jan. of this year to fit the frame.
I countersunk the screw head and welded it in.
I drilled the hole for the 1/4" mounting screw to go through to 9/32", so that I have clearance for 1/4" screw to adjust to get the sensor mount centered around the motor shaft and not touching it.

COOL!

I removed the sensor and it's support angles and installed the belts.
COOOL!

Jun 26, 2008

I connected the tach sensor and secured the wires with wire ties.
I drilled the Zilla board for the tach. wires to come up through the board to the Hairball and secured the wire on both sides of the board with wire ties for strain relief.

I connected the tach. sensor wires to the hairball.
The Red wire goes to Hairball Pin# 19, "Acc +14V Out".
The Green (White) wire goes to Hairball Pin# 20, "Mot Sped 1 In".
The Black wire goes to Hairball Pin# 22, "Signal GND", this terminal has 2 wires connected now, the other black wire goes to the HEPA petal wiring.

July 6, 2008

I have been saving the location above the S10 light switch for the Pak Trakr multi funtion battery monitoring system display.
I marked a 2 1/16" dia. hole location on the face of the light switch panel.
I drilled small 7/64" holes around the inside edge of the circle.
I used a small pair of PC board wire cutters to cut through the adjacent holes,
then I removed the plastic center piece and cleaned the rough hole with a half round file.

The hole, on the back of the panel, just clears the supports for the plastic lighting attachment screws.
I mounted the display in the panel and it is ready to be wired in.

July 26, 2008

I wired in the main battery pack gauges, the 1Amp fuses are on the Zilla board. I am still short one fuse holder.
Radio Shack says they will not be stocking chassis mount fuse holders these any longer. I must be the only customer buying this stuff!

July 31, 2008

I removed the insulation from the end of the 2/0 welding lead on the most Negative battery cable and pushed the copper strands through the Ammeter pickup.
I covered the bare wires at the end of the cable with 3/4' heat shrink tube.
By Placing the Ammeter pickup inline before the connection to the Anderson connections on the Zilla board,
I think I have placed the pickup so that I will be able to monitor all battery discharge and charging currents.

Aug. 1, 2008

I bought a large fuse connector at NAPA Auto parts, I am going to use the 5/16" insulated terminals as a junction block to connect the first and last batteries in the series string, battery charger + & -- cables, the regeneration end + & -- connections.

To get the junction block to seat in S10 front support,
I built a couple of spacers from a old plastic computer case,

The 20 Amp. fuses are for the regeneration circuit.

Aug. 15, 2008
I began connecting the PakTrakr Remote wires at the closest battery group to the PakTrakr display head.
I also ran the PakTrakr Amp pickup into the area to be connected to the PakTrakr display head.
NO connections are going to be made to the PakTrakr display head until all of the PakTrakr remotes are connected and preform their individual funtion chercks, then when everything is okay, I will connect all of the individual PakTrakr Remotes together and then to the PakTrakr Display head. I am also connecting the Zener regulators to the batteries at each battery as I connect the PakTrakr Remote ring terminal's to each battery terminal.

Aug. 20, 2008

I test wired all 4 the Pak Trakr remotes to the batteries to check and make sure they worked.
It looks like the best location for mounting the 3 rear Pak Trakr remotes, where the connecting wires would be long enough to reach the batteries for each remote, will be on the battery frame over the rear axle.
I made the mounting plate for the Pak Trakr remotes from a piece of black plastic.
I disconnected all of the wires to the Pak Trakr remotes and to protect the remotes I taped the ring terminal ends.
To make the Pak Trakr remote connection wire long enough to go from the front of the truck to the 3 Pak Trakr remote location I had to add about 6' of 3 conductor cable.
The 6' of 3 conductor cable came from one of the remotes, where the remotes are in close together and the wire was not needed.
The Pak Trakr remotes do not have mounting holes or lugs, so, I drilled the black plastic mouning sheet and attached the Pak Trakr remotes with wire ties.

Aug. 21, 2008

I finalized the routing of the front Pak Trakr remote wiring and tucked it into 1/4" Convoluted tubing, that I bought from Harbor Freight.
I should have bought 2 ea 14' rolls, instead of just 1 roll, because I had only half enough to do the 26 batteries.
Where the bundle of remote wires became to large to get into the small 1/4" tubing, then I used 3/8" convoluted tubing.
In the remote battery string, it was necessary to add some purple wire to the farthest battery, to get the last Pak Trakr remote wire connected.
The remote wires drop down from the radiator support to the "+" battery posts.
The remote wires for the batteries around the alternator I run along the top of the batteries and will secure it the lifting tabs with wire ties.
I finished wiring in all of the Pak Trakr remotes and then after everything checked out connected them to the display and to each other.
The display indicated that I had a 4, 6 volt, batteries that were in a lower "State of Charge" than most of the batteries, so I connected 2, 12 volt chargers accross 2 batteries each and charged them up to the other batteries "State of Charge" .

Aug. 22, 2008

I bought another 14' of 1/4" convoluted split tubing at my favorite auto parts store.
I finished covering the rest of the Pak Trakr remote wiring leads and secured the split tubing to the battery frames.
I put the charger back on the battery pack and topped it off.

Getting ready for a test drive! ........

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