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Wayne's S-10 Ev Wiring Diagrams
These diagrams are my first attempt at designing an EV electrical system.
Please let me know of corrections or improvments.
May 19, 2008
I downloaded a program called "DesignWorks Lite 4" to draw out the S10 electrical system.
I am still learning to use the program...
June 7, 2008
DC to DC Converter wiring.
Updated, Dec. 24, 2008
June 5, 2008
Digital Gauges wiring part 1.
Sept. 6, 2008
Updated Hairball and Motor terminal connections.
Brake vacuum pump and Zilla coolant fan.
Braking regeneration using a rewired alternator.
Sept. 27, 2008
I removed the relay and tested the rewound alternator at full 169 VDC battery pack voltage.
IT WORKS!! I have about a 10 Amp charge going back into the batteries when using regenerative braking. BIG EV Grin!
These other entries are steps that I went through along the way to get to where the alternator will charge the full battery pack during regeneration.
June 18, 2008
Original regeneration idea diagram, but how do I get greater than 160 volts Dc from a 12 volt alternator?
July 4, 2008
I doubt if the rewired alternator will ever be able to put out enough voltage to recharge the main battery pack as a complete series so, I wonder if I can break the batteries into smaller (voltage) groups and then charge those all of those groups at one time during braking.
I also added 3 thermal switches, inside of the alternator, to protect the windings in the event of overheating.
July 13, 2008
In the event of an alternator overheat condition I added the Aux. overheat switch, that I will use to energize the electric clutch.
This spinning of the alternator will aid in cooling it back down.
July 16, 2008
I divided the 26, 6 volt batteries, (in series), string in half to charge 2 strings of 13 batteries (in series), the voltage total required to send current back into the batteries will be less than 86.5 volts DC.
If the alternator will not charge the batteries during braking, then I will break the group of batteries down further into smaller battery (voltage) groups.
In order to make the battery charging groups smaller I will have to add an additional 6 volt battery to the total battery pack. (26 batteries 2 groups of 13 batteries, or with an additional battery, 27 batteries, 3 groups of 9 batteries).
Adding a battery will keep the main battery pack evenly divided during regeneration, with all batteries receiving regeneration currents.
July 18, 2008
I relocated the Middle Battery Pack Fuse and Disconnect Switch over one battery to have a more efficient cable run.
July 24, 2008
I had an electrical short in my the Regeneration #7 schematic, there was a connection in the center of the battery pack that caused a short of the positive to the negative on the alternator outputs.
I decided that there was not any way that I could charge the batteries with the whole pack connected and that I could not divide the pack into battery groups and charge them simultaniously.
I came up with is to keep the battery packs divided and to charge them independently of each other.
If I was an E.E. there is likely a way to design a circuit that would sence each battery group's voltage and to charge the most discharged pack first. I don't know how to make this type of circuit.(
What I did was to add a DPDT relay that will switch the charging current to which ever group of batteries that I select.
I will have to make a note that this "A/B Battery Group Switch" must not be switched, when regeneration is in use.
July 25, 2008
I was not able to find a 30 Amp, or higher rated, DPDT, 12 volt relay, so, I used 2 SPDT 40 amp, 12 volt coil, relays.
Redrew the circuit with 2 relays, each with kickback diodes.
Aug. 5, 2008
Revised the circuit with one DPDT relay, and less number of blocking diodes. I am still looking for the best way to do this regen.
Aug. 9, 2008
I moved the Ammeter, on the drawing, to it's correct physical location before the circuit breaker.
Aug. 12, 2008
Added relay pin #s to the diagram.
June 15, 2008
Heater control circuit.
Modes of Heater Operation:
1. Blower fan speed must be Med. or Hi. before the "green" READY LED lights.
2. "Red" Low Heat LED are lit when the temp. control set on medium heat, (Low Heat Relay Energized).
3. Both "Red" Low Heat & High Heat LEDs are lit when the temp. control set on High heat, (Both Low and High Heat Relays are Energized).
4. 1 Amp AG3 fuse protects the heater control.
5. The "Over Temp." switch opens to unenergize the Low and High Temp. relays, "Over Temp. Safety Shutoff".
6. The "Over Temp.", "Red" LED flashes giving a visual signal that a high heat condition has triggered a shutdown of the heating system.
June 17, 2008
Warp9 motor Overheat Indicator using the stock S10 in dash HOT coolant temperature Indicator.
This circuit is required because the Warp9 motor over heat switch is normally closed and during a motor over heat condition the contacts would be open.
An over heat condition this will give the needed ground to the HOT Coolant lamp for it to light.
June 20, 2008
DC to AC Inverter to run Zilla coolant (aquarium) pump.
The diagram does not show the GFCI outlet.
June 28, 2008
Charger Door (fuel door) Safety Switch.
Next S10 EV video(s).