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Battery Cores!
Jan. 1, 2008
The battery cores needed to have enough cores for 26 Deepcycle batteries!
A BIG to all of my friends who helped me in getting enough battery cores!!
Jan. 2, 2008
The 26 Deep Cycle Batteries (GC110) are ordered from Sterling Battery Company
Jan. 10, 2008
Chris from Sterling Battery called and we will unload the 26 New GC 110's this evening when I get home from work.
I got the cores out on the driveway just in time for Chris to drive up.
GC110's, wrapped up & going through inspection.
Unloading
Safely in the garage. We put recycled plastic campaign posters under the batteries to keep them off of the cement floor.
Load the cores into truck.
Thank you!, Chris and Sterling Battery Company.
Feb. 23, 2008
I received the parts needed for Zener battery charge regulators.
The parts came from Radio shack and Digi-Key.
I used Loni's instructions on how to build the DIY Zener-Regulator How-To on YouTube
Loni also has a PDF version available at http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Zener_Regs.pdf
Parts List:
25 each, 10 Ohm, 1/2 watt, Resistors (5 pkgs, Radio Shack #271-1101)
25 each, PR2, 3 volt, Flashlight Lamps
50 each, 5/16", #12-10 gauge, Ring Terminals (1 box of 50 terminals)
25 each, Zener Diode, 5 watt, 6.8 volt (Digi-Key Corp)
I removed the insulation from the ring terminals. I used an old glass bottle for a holding fixture while soldering.
I will find something for protection and to cover the bulbs and still let the light from the lamp be seen.
Feb. 26, 2008
I decided to use 3/4" OD X 5/8" ID X 2" long pieces of clear plastic tubing to cover and protect the regulators.
I used a wrap of red electrical tape to identify the positive end of the regulators and then I used clear silicone sealant to secure the tubing on the regulators.
Feb. 26, 2008
The sealant has cured, I seal the other end of each regulator.
Apr. 12, 2008
I arranged the batteries into the configuration that they will be installed in the rear battery boxes.
I took some digital pictures and touched them up with mock-ups of digital cable runs.
UPDATE: Apr 21, 2008
I removed 3 batteries from the (8 battery) rear box and installed them under the hood, for better weight distribution.
Apr. 14, 2008
I needed a battery carrier, so here is what I made to fit into the carry slots on the tops of the batteries.
The cord is 5/16" nylon with the ends melted at the knots.
Apr. 18, 2008
I set all of the rear batteries in place in the battery boxes. I used the battery diagram to get all of them properly turned the right directions to connect the battery cables.
Jun. 27, 2008
I started building the battery cables.
I refered to the battery connection diagram that I had drawn to keep on track!
Neg. to Pos., Neg. to Pos. and not get lost!
The battery cables are made from 2/0 (used) welding cable.
I cut out the spots with bad insulation, but, the copper cable was discolored, like it had been hot.
I cleaned these discolored areas where the terminals were to be crimped on with a mixture of vinegar and table salt.
This cleaned /loosened the oxidation and I used brass wool to polish the cable. I submerged the cleaned ends of the cable in clean water and rinsed the cleaning solution off.
I used a battery terminal brush to clean the inside of the battery terminal sockets, and gave everything a coating of "Noalox".
I used my homemade crimper to crimp the terminals on.
I had to make sure that I had the right lenght cable for the pair of terminals connected.
Don't forget to put the plastic terminal boots on the cable.
I wanted to use some heat shrink on the cable where the terminal and the insulation meet, but, when I tried to get the boots over the 2/0 cable PLUS the heat shrink, the boots would not go over the added diameter, so, I bagged the heat shrink on the splice area and just used the plactic boots.
Get the proper length of insulation stripped.
Get all of those loose wire strands into the terminal socket coated with the Noalox.
Get both ends of the cable with the battery terminals in line, straight with each other.
Jun. 28, 2008
I ran out of battery terminals, (I had a "Brain Fart" by only ordering half enough terminals and covers), so I went on to installing the (safety) battery disconnect switch at the rear of the truck.
This is the best switch I could find that had a 300 amp continuous rating, (1000 Amp Max.) the only draw back is that the switch is only rated for 48 VDC.
With this switch in relatively the middle of the bank of batteries it will see a maxinum voltage of about 75 VDC.
Also, 48 volts is close to 50 VDC, so, 75 VDC is a 50% overloading.
I am pushing the limits of the switch, will just have to see if it holds up.
I made a switch mount from a plastic kitchen cutting board, the specs. on the board said it is dishwasher safe,
(will just have to see if it gives me any problems). ;-)
I mounted the switch and bracket at the end of the right rear frame rail.
In order to get clearance away from the tailgate when the bed is tilted up I had to space the switch back into the frame rail 3/4" with a spacer made of hard wood from a pallet.
The wire ties are only temp. until I get the battery cables attached.
July 18, 2008
I bought the 500 Amp fuse and fuse holder from EV Source.
I made an 1/4" thick Aluminum brace to hold the fuse.
The plastic brace that I made was not strong enough to support the heavy battery cables.
I used the plastic brace as a pattern to make a new brace out of 1/4" Aluminum.
July 21, 2008
I used a scrap piece of plexiglass and made the 6" X 7" protective clear fuse cover.
July 26, 2008
I purchased heavy duty 2/0 welding lead connectors for battery pack disconnects.
I took a break in the 97 Deg. heat of the afternoon and watched the "BLUE ANGELS" as they made turnes over my house.
They were putting on an air show this afternoon at the airport 8 miles away!
Back to work finishing running cables and disconnects for the batteries.
From each of the rear (driveline battery) packs, the shortest cable run was to run,
the Positive cable along one frame rail, and to run the Negative cable along the other frame rail.
I double wire tied the cables up away from the driveline to the battery frame.
See the clearance between the bottom of the truck bed frame and the battery cable disconnect.
July 29, 2008
I am using used 2/0 welding cable, I have been very lucky in that I have only had to make one splice in the longest cable run.
I used a 2/0 welding cable lug, cut the flat lug portion off and ended up with this "butt splice" connector.
I stripped the insulation back and inserted the cables and crumped it solid and covered the connection with 3/4" heat shrink tube. (not shown).
This afternoon, I was able to get more of the battery terminals crimped on the front battery group.
YES! Almost done making cable connections!
Aug. 13, 2008
With each of the 7 & 5 battery groups disconnected, I am going to connect all the battery cables to the batteries.
My wrench was long enough to short across the +&-- battery terminals so, I covered the 1/2" wrench with electrical tape.
I will need to buy a short 1/2" wrench and wrap it with electrical tape to have in my EV toolbox.
To ease removal of the cable clamping bolt, I removed every cable clamp bolt and put a little "Noalox" on it's threads to help prevent corrosion.
Note: Don't put any compound between the cable clamp and the battery post area as it will cause a poor electrical connection.
I did not order enough terminals with my 1st order!
I have 26 batteries, so how many terminals?................... 26 ea. Positive and 26 ea. Negative. ...... But, I only ordered 13 of each.
So I had to order the remainder of the terminals and when they arrived, this second group, were Copper terminals and not Lead as in the first order. :-(
With the high price of Lead, the only Copper battery terminals were available.
I like Lead terminal ends attached to Lead automotive battery posts.
This is just my opinion but I feel the Copper terminals corrode faster when attached to a lead battery post.
Lead is GOOD!
Look at the post to cable contact area too!
Copper is BAD!
Smaller Lead post to Copper terminal contact area, :-(
There is something good about these copper terminals, the clamping bolt has a boss for the square bolt head on both sides of the clamp,
so the bolt can come in from either side and be held from turning.
Look at the corrosion from charging gasses that came in contact with this copper terminal!
I am going to take all of these with the copper terminals back off and at least put battery corrosion preventer washers between the clamp and the bottom of the terminal posts.
I don't like these one piece ganged battery caps, they spit or leak acid when the battery is charged!
In my book they are a poor cap!, I don't care if every battery manufacture has gone to them.
I cleaned the battery posts, with a battery post cleaner, until they looked like this one.
They should be bright and shiny with absolutely no dark spots on contact area of the post.
Also, cleaned the contact area inside of every battery clamp to be just as bright and shiny.
After I get the PakTrakr's and Zener shunt battery regulators connected, then,I will coat each terminal and wire connection with a light coating of Petrolium Jelly, and then slip the protective covers over them.
Aug. 14, 2008
I bought a bottle of 50 terminal protectors at
Interstate Batteries.
The bottle I bought only had 48 in it!, but there was supposed to be 50 in the bottle for $6.00.
I should have bought the larger bottle of 100 ea. protectors as it was only $9.00 and then I would have had spares for when these need to be replaced.
I installed the terminal protectors on the battery cables and also checked the cleanness of the posts and clamps.
I also found one battery clamp that I had skipped over in tightening in my 1st cable installation, I guess I was just cussing those darn Copper terminals and lost my place.
Aug. 17, 2008
I connected a few more of the Zener regulators this afternoon.
I accidentally let one end of one Zener regulator touch the frame of the truck while connecting it accross a battery and "POP" it burned the 1.5 volt bulb out.
WHY? The batteries are no where connected to the frame of the truck, or are they?
This is where I found that I was getting main battery voltage to the frame of the truck.
Main Battery Voltage was getting to the frame of the truck & the path it took to get there, was through the spilt battery acid that was deposited around the battery posts, from battery acid that was spit from those darned spin caps.
I washed off the battery tops with water, this stopped the voltage leakage to the frame of the truck, (for the time being).
I don't know how much current this acid on the top of the batteries would conduct, but, I found it is enough current to burn out a 1.5 volt flashlight bulb.
I connected all of the battery disconnects and turned the charger on.
I adjusted the charger voltage to 180 volts and checked the amount of current going into the main battery pack with an inductive ammeter.
The current going into the batteries was about 4 Amps.
This should be a low enough rate of charge to not charge the batteries too fast.
After about 4 hours, some of the lamp filaments were just begining to glow, giving a visual that those Zener regulators had began to shunt a small part of the charging current around the mostly charged battery.
Aug. 24, 2008
I had found it was a real pain to take the plastic cover off of the rear fuse.
I replaced the sheet metal screws with hanger bolts and wing nuts.
This made removing the wing nuts to clean the plexiglass and it's replacement much better.
Jan. 5, 2009
I have been concerned because the S10 is not performing at the levels that I had hoped for in acceleration and distance.
I have made several adjustments to the various motor and battery parameters controlled by the Hairball interface,
with very little improvements in the trouble areas.
I have been reading on the Electric Vehicle Discussion List from Mr. Cor van de Water and Mr. Roland Wiench have posted descriptions of controller operation & functions, (there are several guys on the EVDL who's opinions I respect and when these guys talk I listen).
Roland also talked about the WarP 9 motor and how it is actually a 190 Volt DC motor and that the motor will not perform properly at any voltage less than 160 Volts DC.
I feel that my performance problem lies in that my pack battery voltage is too low,
when my battery pack is fully charged I have a 163 volt pack voltage, so within a few minutes the surface charge of my battery pack is down to under the needed 160 volts! ..........I need more batteries to up the voltage!
I have room for 3 more 6 volt batteries in the rear most battery box. I will remove the tool box and install the 3 batteries in that location.
I have ordered 3 more batteries and will get them installed and wired in.
This will give me a total of 29, 6 volt deepcycle batteries, in a series string, to bring up my nominal battery pack voltage to 174 volts,
with a fully charged pack voltage of 183 volts, that will require a charging voltage of ~203 volts.
Next DC to DC Converter.
More next time...